![]() This mould will have two halves, which you will need to hold firmly together when pouring your cast, and can be used over and over again. Multi-piece mould: If you’re creating a more complex sculpture, you’ll probably need to make a multi-piece mould. This type of mould can be used multiple times. To create a single piece mould, you will need to apply a release agent to your master, build a wall around it and pour plaster on top of it. Single piece mould: A single piece mould is ideal for simple sculptures that are flat on the back (such as a relief piece). Once you’ve cast your sculpture, you will need to chip away the waste mould with a chisel. Waste mould: A waste mould can only be used once and is suitable for a soft master that’s made from a material like wet clay, modelling clay or wax. The type will depend on the material you have used for your master and the number of casts you need. There are 3 main types of moulds that work in different ways: a waste mould, a single piece mould and a multi-piece mould. Once that’s done, paint it onto your master using a soft brush. Put the petroleum jelly into a deep dish and then slowly add the white spirit until it thins to the consistency of cream. There are plenty of release agents on the market, but a good DIY option is to mix petroleum jelly with white spirits. Once you’ve made the master sculpture you will need to coat it in a release agent to stop the plaster mould from sticking to it. You can create this from wood clay, modelling clay, wax or polymer clay. A ‘master’ is basically the original sculpture that will form the shape of your mould. The first step in plaster casting is to create a master to make your mould from (this is also called a plug). Look after yourself and always wear a dust mask and latex gloves when you’re working with plaster of Paris. We touched on this on our previous plaster tips article, but it’s worth another mention. Below are just a few to get you well on your way to bringing your cast to life. ![]() We’ve been experimenting with this great medium lately and picked up plenty of tips along the way. The plaster piece was carefully removed, and the mold was cleaned and chilled for re-use.If you’re curious about making a plaster of Paris cast, you’ve come to the right place. After 30 minutes, the top was removed to allow the plaster to continue curing, since the gelatin is water-based, the plaster will not fully cure unless exposed to the air. The top was replaced to form the back side of the print, and evenly displace the plaster throughout the molding cavity. The mold was chilled, then an equal volume of plaster to the print was poured in its place. The top was carefully removed, as was the print. Left to freeze overnight, the top layer of gelatin was cut away, along the perimeter of the print suspended below. For these complicated shapes, we 3D printed the positives, then suspended them in a sealed box, which we poured the liquid gelatin into. a total of 30 Liters were mixed, allowing us to cast pieces as large as 40cm x 25cm x 10cm. For casting larger components, the formula for the gelatin needed to be adapted to remain firm at a larger scale, incorporating less glycerin, and more gelatin.
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